Curator’s Curio: Spinning Fiber, Spinning World: Ensuring World Renewal by Making Fiber

Spinning Fiber, Spinning World: Ensuring World Renewal by Making Fiber

Maureen Meyers

New South Associates, Inc.

 

At the Mississippian Carter Robinson site in Lee County, Virginia archaeologists uncovered evidence of fabric production during the thirteenth century (Meyers 2011, 2017, 2025; Ritchison et al. 2025). This includes weaving (standing loom posts; heddle remnant); dying (large pots; blackberry remains); sewing (bone needles); adornment (shell, shell beads, drills) and spinning in the form of at least two spindle whorls as well as small bowls and ceramic wrist distaffs (Figure 1; Figure 2).

Figure 1. Spindle Whorls from Carter Robinson; white limestone quarter (left); red hematite incised (right)

Fabric and fabric production can be hard to identify archaeologically. Fabric itself doesn’t often survive in the archaeological record, and tools to make fabric, like spindle whorls, are frequently misidentified as gaming pieces. When a hole is present in an artifact that otherwise looks like a gaming piece, the object more likely was used as a spindle whorl, and its presence provides evidence of an important women’s activity: textile production. Spindle whorls vary in size and shape, a direct result of the intended function of yarn (Neff 1996). Nineteenth-century ethnographic documentation of spinning in the Southeast noted women in Virginia used their thighs to spin both animal and vegetal sources (Smith in Arber 1907). Adair (1775:454) states women gathered buffalo hair and “spun it as fine as they can.” Although yarn rarely preserves, known fragments suggest different fibers were used to create a range of products. Buffalo hair is a coarse fiber and was likely used for heavy mantles or blankets. Spanish moss, slightly less coarse, was used to create skirts, whereas rabbit and milkweed, finer fibers, were used to make clothing for special use.

Drooker (1992; 2000) researched spinning in the Mississippian period by analyzing cordmarking on over 1500 saltpan vessel sherds from the Wickliffe Mounds site in western Kentucky. The saltpans were made in molds, and fabric was placed between the mold and clay, leaving impressions on the vessels.  The sherds indicated that as the Mississippian period emerged, the twist direction of the corded fabric impressions changed from “S” to “Z”. Simultaneously, a larger number of marked ceramic disks, probably used as whorls, were found, highlighting women’s role in fabric production, emerging techniques and potential connections to cultural belief systems.

Alt (1999) suggests the decorations on the disks represent a spider’s web. In Cherokee mythology, Grandmother Spider, a weaver, travels to the Upper World where she puts a bit of the sun on her back. She then returns to This World, thereby ensuring life. The change in cordage spin direction may also be tied to Mississippian ideas about world renewal. For example, Kozuch et al. (2017) suggest that conch shells were preferred in the Mississippian Black Drink ceremony because they turned right, (like a “Z” twist), or clockwise—an essential component of world renewal.

One of the spindle whorls from the Carter Robinson site is made of red hematite, with a hole in the center and an ‘X’ carved into it (see Figure 1). A second spindle whorl is made of polished white limestone and was cut into quarters (see Figure 1). The circle and cross motif, found in Southeastern iconography and known from shell, stone and ceramic artifacts, represents This World, the four directions, and the center. The red hematite spindle whorl may represent the fire or sun, with the carved ‘X’ a visual of the cords of the four corners holding the three worlds together. Or as Alt suggests, a spider’s web, hearkening back to the Grandmother Spider creation myth. The second whorl of white limestone is split into fourths, possibly representing one corner of This World in the World belief system. The Carter Robinson site itself sits at the edge of the Mississippian world, and these spindle whorls may be a material embodiment of the world corner. The material and design of the two spindle whorls found at the site suggest that women making fabrics was central to maintaining world order according to Mississippian belief systems.

Figure 2. Ceramic wrist distaffs.

References Cited

Arber, Edward, editor 1910. Travels and Works of Captain John Smith. John Grant, Edinburgh.

Adair, James. 1775 The History of the American Indians. Edward and Charles Dilley, London

Alt, Susan. 1999 Spindle Whorls and Fiber Production at Early Cahokian Settlements. Southeastern Archaeology 18(2): 124-133.

Drooker, Penelope B. 2000 Approaching Fabrics Through Impressions on Pottery. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings 773:59-68.

  1. Mississippian Village Textiles at Wickliffe. University of Alabama Press, Tuscaloosa.

Kozuch, Laura, Karen J. Walker and William H. Marquardt. 2017 Lightning Whelk Natural History and a New Sourcing Method. Southeastern Archaeology 36(3): 226-240.

Meyers, Maureen S. 2025. Economy of Production: A Theory of Pre-State Labor Organization and Material Reuse. Economic Anthropology 12(1): e12320. https://doi.org/10.1002/sea2.12320

  1. Social Integration at a Frontier and the Creation of Mississippian Social Identity in Southwestern Virginia. Southeastern Archaeology 36(2): 1-10.

2011 The Political Economy of Exotic Trade on the Mississippian Frontier: A Case Study of a Fourteenth-Century Chiefdom in Southwestern Virginia. Dissertation submitted to the Department of Anthropology, University of Kentucky, Lexington.

Neff, Linda Stephen 2001 Taking a Closer Look at Yarn Production Specialization in the Flagstaff Area. Paper presented at the Ninth Annual Southwest Paleoethnobotany Workshop, Flagstaff, Arizona.

Ritchison, Brandton T., Zoe Doubles, and Maureen Meyers 2025. Mind the Gap: Modeling Mississippian Migration and Frontier Settlement in Southwest Virginia, USA. Journal of Anthropological Archaeology 78 https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaa.2025.101664.

Curator’s Curio: “A China Boxe”: Ming Porcelain, Indigenous Diplomacy, and Global Exchange in Early Virginia

“A China Boxe”: Ming Porcelain, Indigenous Diplomacy, and Global Exchange in Early Virginia

Merry Abbitt Outlaw, Senior Curator, Jamestown Rediscovery

Bly Straube, Senior Curator, Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation

 

Porcelain Box sherd from Jamestown, Dehua, China, ca. 1600-1620. H: 1 ½”.
The box is embossed with vertical reeding on the exterior, and a V-shaped indentation in the corner

Ming Chinese porcelain sherds representing over 135 discrete vessels have been recovered at James Fort (1607-1624) by Jamestown Rediscovery archaeologists. Most are blue and white kraak porcelain made in Jingdezhen, Jiangxi province, China, during the reign of the Wanli Emperor. Also represented are many bowls made in Zhangzhou, Fujian province on China’s southeast coast. Unique within this assemblage, however, is a corner sherd from a small press-molded box, made in Dehua, also Fujian province—a center famous for producing Blanc de Chine, a fine, white porcelain manufactured during the Yuan and Ming dynasties.

These small Dehua boxes are often identified as cosmetic containers, but their form and finish also make them well-suited for holding incense, medicines, or other precious substances. The sides of the box are embossed with parallel vertical reeding that deliberately imitates woven bamboo strips, a visual reference to lacquered wares produced in southern China since at least the fourth century BCE. Far from being merely decorative, this motif situates the object within a long-standing tradition of elite material culture: Chinese lacquer boxes of this type were highly prestigious luxury goods, potent markers of wealth and status, and objects commonly mobilized within diplomatic exchange networks.

Box with cover, Dehua, China. Ca. 1600-1620.
3 3/4” x 3 3/4” x 2 1/2”.
The Jamestown box sherd is identical to this intact square box, suggesting they may have been made in the same mold.

Documentary evidence suggests that such an object played a role in diplomatic relationships among North American Indigenous nations before 1621. That year, English colonists traveling up the Potomac River reported seeing a “China Boxe at one of the Kings Houses.” When they asked the werowance how he obtained it, he replied that it had been sent by “a King that dwelt in the West, over the great Hills, some tenne dayes journey, whose Country is near a great Sea.” The gift-giver had said that it came from people “that came thither in ships, that weare cloths, crooked swords . . .dwelt in houses and were called Acanack-China.”

Carved red lacquer Chinese box with gilded basketry panels, early 17th century. H: 3-5/8” x W: 5 ¾” x D 5 ¾” (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Florence and Herbert Irving, 2015). Accession 2015.500.1.60a,b. The box lid is carved with plum blossoms and magpies, which is an auspicious bird in Chinese culture because its name is a homophone for “happiness.” Note the woven bamboo and the deeply cut corners, and the pedestal base.

The Englishmen describe the box they had seen as “made of braided Palmito, painted without, and lined in the inside with blue Taffata after the China or East India fashion,” a description that strongly suggests a lacquered bamboo container. Although this description does not match the porcelain box found at James Fort, the Virginia werowance’s “China Boxe” is nonetheless highly significant as it underscores the reach and vitality of Indigenous trade and diplomatic networks.  These networks extended far beyond English colonial influence, connecting Native leaders to global goods, distant cultures and long-standing systems of exchange.

 

 

 

 

_________________________

Following the Dragon: Ming Chinese Porcelain from Jamestown at Jamestown Settlement is a special cooperative exhibition by the Jamestown Rediscovery

Foundation (Preservation Virginia) and the Jamestown-Yorktown Foundation. The exhibition, which runs through July 12, 2026, reunites thirty-one fragmentary Ming porcelain vessels recovered from James Fort with intact parallel examples from British, Dutch, and U.S. museums and private collections. Highlights include extraordinarily rare wares such as a bottle depicting the Chinese fenghuang, known today only from James Fort and a single matching pair in the collection of King Charles III.

 

References

Susan Myra Kingsbury (1906-1935) The Records of the Virginia Company of London III (Washington: Government Printing Office), 547.

Merry Abbitt Outlaw (2025) Following the Dragon: Late Ming Porcelain from James Fort, Jamestown, Virginia (Hollis, NH: Jamestown Rediscovery Foundation).

Samuel Purchas (1625) Hakluytus Posthumus or Purchas His Pilgrimes XIX (Glasgow: James MacLehose & Sons, 1907), 151-152.

Spring 2026 Meeting Details

February 27th, 1-3:30pm ET.

This meeting will be in person in Richmond at the Richmond Public Library Main Branch.  Joining via Zoom will also be possible.  Link will be shared via CoVA Corner check or contact a CoVA member for the Zoom link.

Curator’s Curio: A Purr-plexing Find: Domestic Cat Remains in the Cellar at George Washington’s Mount Vernon

Mariana Zechini, Archaeology Lab Analyst, George Washington’s Mount Vernon

A total of 94 cat bones from the 2024 and 2018 excavations were found. Photo by George Brown.

During recent excavations of Mount Vernon’s cellar, archaeologists discovered 94 bones belonging to a cat. Some of the cat’s bones exhibited an interesting pathology, telling us more about one of this cat’s nine lives!

Domestic cats were common on 18th century sites as ratters and mousers, so the skeleton itself is an interesting, but not surprising, find. Domestic cat bones have been found elsewhere at Mount Vernon, including two mandibles excavated from the kitchen and one from the House for Families quarter1. However, both mandibles of the cat recovered from the Mansion cellar show signs of alveolar resorption, a process of bone reformation along teeth sockets following tooth loss or disease2.

The mandibles show signs of alveolar resorption, indicating the cat may have been fed by someone in order to survive. The right mandible (top) was found in 2024 and the left mandible (bottom) was found in 2018 and mend to each other. Photo by George Brown.

Missing teeth meant the cat may have struggled to hunt on its own and consume its prey, but the presence of alveolar bone remodeling suggests that someone cared for this cat, keeping it fed for several months to years as its tooth sockets filled with new bone. The fusion of bones present in the assemblage demonstrates the cat was an adult, although an exact age remains unclear.  While alveolar resorption can occur at any time in a cat’s life, the chance of tooth loss and disease increases with age, suggesting the cat may have been a mature animal. Unfortunately, the cat’s cranium – the rest of the skull above the lower jaw – is missing, so it is impossible to determine if alveolar resorption is present on the maxillae as well.

Caption: A close up of the right mandible showing alveolar resorption and bone remodeling. Photo by George Brown.

No documentary evidence regarding cats as pets during George Washington’s tenure at Mount Vernon has been found, and the cat cannot be definitively connected to any person at the estate. George and Martha were more invested in their pet birds and dogs, and in fact, Martha’s granddaughter Nelly Custis, who came to live at Mount Vernon in 1781 expressed her disdain for cats in a 1797 letter to her best friend3. The lack of documentary evidence for cats as pets in the Washington family may indicate that the cat was cared for by enslaved workers who labored in the cellar where the cat was eventually found. Records indicate that the enslaved Lee family – Lucy, Frank, and their children – lived in the basement, but not until the 1790s after the cat’s skeleton was deposited.

It is unclear how the cat’s remains ended up in the cellar. Most of the bones were burned and were found scattered among three adjacent units near the bottom of a stairwell. Current archaeological and architectural research suggests that the staircase may have been constructed as early as the 1740s when Lawrence Washington, George’s older half-brother, owned Mount Vernon, or possibly in the 1750s when Washington arrived and began making large-scale changes across the plantation. Thus, the cat likely died and was deposited in the cellar sometime between 1740-17604.

ArchGIS Ortho map of the basement. Most of the burned cat bones were found in unit B04-4 and its features. Unburned cat bones were found in units 22 and 23. Maps by Nick Beard.

Most of the burned cat bones were localized in one unit near the bottom of the staircase, although eight unburned cat bones were found intwo adjacent units. As the mansion grew, this room underwent several periods of remodeling, including the addition of a paved floor installed around the 1770s. While no indication of a burial of the remains has been identified, the archaeological evidence of an internment could have been destroyed during the various campaigns of construction that occurred in the space. Alternately, the bones may have been part of fill that was brought in to the cellar and scattered during leveling. No documentary evidence of a fire in this part of the room exists, however a small one may have occurred that was never recorded, burning a few of the bones. While the cat’s exact fate remains unknown, it is clear its skeleton was heavily disturbed by frequent construction.

The opening of B04-4E, the layer containing most of the cat skeleton. The purple arrow indicates the area where most of the cat bones were found and the white arrow indicates the landing of the stairwell. Photo by Kyle Vanhoy.

Excavation of the cellar and analysis of the faunal material found there is ongoing. Although the full story of the cat may never be known, this unique find provides an exciting opportunity to rethink the relationships between humans and animals at Mount Vernon.

Special thanks to Magen Hodapp for zooarchaeological consultation, George Brown for photographing the bones, and the Mount Vernon Archaeology team for answering my constant questions!

1 Bowen, Joanne. 2015. Faunal Analysis for Mount Vernon. Report to Eleanor Breen, Historic Mount Vernon, Historic Preservation Department, Mount Vernon, VA.

2 White, Tim D., Michael T. Black, Pieter A. Folkens. 2012. Human Osteology, 3rd Edition. Elsevier, Inc. Burlington, Massachusetts.

3 Thompson, Mary. 2020. “On one side I am called upon to remember the Parrot, on the other to remember the dog”: George Washington and Animals, Domestic and Exotic. Unpublished paper, Mount Vernon Ladies Association, Mount Vernon, VA.

4 Reinhart, Tom, Carhart, Lily, Boroughs, Jason. 2025. Personal Communication.

Curator’s Curio: Hunting Big Game in Virginia

Sarah Janesko, Senior Archaeologist, New South Associates, Inc.

In a recent excavation in Stafford County, VA, archaeologists with New South Associates (NSA) uncovered a Clovis projectile point. 

Artifact photo of both front and back of a tan-colored fluted point on a black background.

People of the Clovis culture are known to have lived in this region since about 13,000 years ago, or about 11,000 BCE1. The Clovis culture is well known by archaeologists for their style of fluted projectile points which they hafted to spears for hunting megafauna like the mastodon, wooly mammoth, bison, horses, and others2. Clovis people lived in a temperate climate that was likely 5-10 degrees colder than today’s climate. They moved across grasslands, coniferous forests, and upland terrain in small groups to hunt, fish, and gather their food using tools made from a range of lithic materials including jasper, chert, orthoquartzite, and quartz. 

This projectile point, found in Stratum II of an excavation unit on an upper terrace above the Potomac Creek, is made from jasper breccia – a cryptocrystalline stone with veins of quartz cemented into its matrix. Jasper and chert were commonly used to make stone tools due to their small grain structure, which fractures in more predictable ways than quartz or quartzite. The jasper used to manufacture this point while not definitively sourced, has characteristics of Brook Run jasper, a stone type found at a quarry just over 9 miles from where this Clovis point was excavated. This might indicate that the stone for this tool was quarried locally and used by people who hunted and camped in this region.

To gain a better understanding of the types of animals that were being hunted and processed at this site along the Potomac Creek, NSA tested several artifacts, including this Clovis point, to assess the presence of animal protein residue. Archaeological Investigations Northwest, Inc. (AINW) analyzed the samples using a method called crossover immunoelectrophoresis (CIEP), a technique which is based on the immune (antigen-antibody) reaction. In this process, extracts of protein residues from artifacts in an ammonia solution are tested against antisera from known animals. Positive reactions to antisera indicate that the stone tool or tool fragment came into direct contact with a species in that Family or Order.

The results of this analysis showed that this Clovis projectile point contained protein residue from Bovidae, the biological family which includes bison and domestic cattle. These Bovidae proteins are likely from ancient bison, and have been identified on other Clovis points along the East Coast in North and South Carolina2,3. This is truly a special artifact which adds to our understanding of some of the first people who lived on the land we now call Virginia.

1. Boyd, Cliff. 2020. A Review of Paleoindian Research in Virginia and a View towards the Future. In The Archaeology of Virginia’s First Peoples, edited by Elizabeth A. Moore and Bernard K. Means. Archeological Society of Virginia, Richmond, Virginia.

2. Moore, Christopher R., Larry Kimball, Albert C. Goodyear, Mark J. Brooks, I. Randolph Daniel Jr., Allen West, Sean G. Taylor, Kiersten J. Weber, John L. Fagan, and Cam M. Walker. 2023. Paleoamerican Exploitation of Extinct Megafauna Revealed Through Immunological Blood Residue and Microwear Analysis, North and South Carolina, USA. Scientific Reports 13.

3. Moore, Christopher R., Mark J. Brooks, Larry R. Kimball, Margaret E. Newman, and Brian P. Kooyman. 2016. Early Hunter-Gatherer Tool Use and Animal Exploitation: Protein and Microwear Evidence from the Central Savannah River Valley. American Antiquity 81(1):132–147.

(not cited) Carr, Kurt W. 2018. Peopling of the Middle Atlantic: A Review of Paleoindian Research. In Middle Atlantic Prehistory: Foundations and Practice, pp. 219–260. Rowman and Littlefield, Lanham, Maryland.

Curator’s Curio: “Scratch that – it’s Pearlware”

Sean Devlin, Senior Curator of Archaeology, The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation

sdevlin@cwf.org

Excavations in the 2022 season at Williamsburg’s colonial magazine brought to light a sprig-molded medallion bearing the letters “GR.” While this decoration is commonly associated with Westerwald or white salt-glazed stoneware decoration, the magazine medallion was pearlware.

D2018-JBC-1115-0021 2002-106 detail 3; Jug; England, Staffordshire or Liverpool; ca. 1790; Museum Purchase

While these specific medallions on pearlware are rare, they were part of a widespread decorative imitation perpetuated by British potteries. The practice of applying molded pads bearing the “GR” royal cipher or initials to mugs, jugs, and chamberpots for sale in the British markets started in the stoneware potteries of Westerwald, Germany 1. British stoneware potters soon took up this decorative convention on their own wares. Sprig-molded medallions are perhaps most synonymous with white salt-glazed stoneware in the scratch blue genre. In this iteration, the applied pads were often surrounded by free-hand foliate or geometric incised decoration into which cobalt blue colorant was applied and wiped away to varying degrees of precision2. Additionally, these vessels were often adorned with bands of cordoning at the top and bottom of the vessel body, itself often colored with cobalt.

With the appearance of new kinds of ceramic bodies, such as pearlware, in the 1770s, this tradition appears to have continued in a limited fashion. Conventionally, these decorations are ascribed to the period immediately following the American Revolution and for a few decades thereafter. Indeed, a small but robust body of archaeologically recovered scratch blue pearlware vessels bearing medallions have been found on sites from Massachusetts3, to Maryland4, to Charleston5. Colonial Williamsburg is fortunate to also have an intact example amongst its Fine and Decorative Arts ceramics collections.

Artifact record 12BE-00368-FS held in the archaeological collections at The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation.

The recently excavated Williamsburg example expands not only the known distribution of this ceramic, but also provides an opportunity to reflect on the diversity of molds that appear to have been used in the production of these applied pads. Of the four other archaeological examples and one fine arts collections piece identified so far as comparable examples, each vessel decoration was produced with a unique medallion mold. This typological avenue begs for further exploration and may offer insights into exactly how widespread the adaptation of this decorative tradition was to new ceramic ware types in British potteries. Unfortunately, the Williamsburg example was recovered from a disturbed context. Nevertheless, it speaks to the evolution of marketing and decoration of British ceramics in the late 18th century and makes an important contribution to expanding a very small set of archaeological data on these medallions in American contexts.


1 Skerry, Janine, Suzanne Hood. 2009. Salt-Glazed Stoneware in Early America. Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Williamsburg, Williamsburg, in association with University Press of New England, Hanover.

2 Noël Hume, Ivor. 1970. A Guide to the Artifacts of Colonial America. Alfred Knopf. New York, NY.

3 Schwartz, George. 2011. “Digging Up Salem’s Golden Age: Ceramic Use Among the Merchant Class.” In Robert Hunter (ed.) Ceramics in America 2011. Chipstone Foundation. Milwaukee, WI.

4Maryland Archaeological Conservation Laboratory 2015 [2003] Colonial Ceramics: White Salt-Glazed Stoneware. Diagnostic Artifacts in Maryland. https://apps.jefpat.maryland.gov/diagnostic/ColonialCeramics/Colonial-LargeImages/White%20Salt%20Glazed/18BC38-ScratchBlueChamberpot-GR.html [accessed 3/28/2025]

5 Zierden, Martha 2022. Personal communication regarding Charleston scratch pearlware.


Curator’s Curio: Civil War-Era Washington, D.C.: A Druggist Beyond the Lines?

Chrissy Ames, D.C. Historic Preservation Office

Archaeological investigations in the 1980’s by Engineering Science, Inc. of the Halcyon House at 3400 Prospect St, NW, in Georgetown, Washington, D.C. uncovered multiple complete glass pharmaceutical bottles embossed with “J.L. Kidwell”. (Baumgartner-Wagner and Dinnel 1989) (Figure 1). Halcyon House was built in 1787 by Benjamin Stoddert, the first Secretary of the Navy (Jones and Bailey 1959). Not only was the recovery of these bottles a great find because of their completeness, but their markings refer to John Lawrence Kidwell, a druggist and the very same “J.L. Kidwell” who lived at Halcyon from 1859 to 1900. These artifacts have served as an entry point for learning more about Kidwell’s business affairs in Civil War-Era Washington.

As early as 1860, Kidwell maintained a store on E St, NW (Boyd 1860). Embossing a proprietor’s name or address in raised lettering on a bottle was common during the 19th century. The marking would ensure a bottle was returned to the right business and also served as advertising.

Kidwell was well-established by this time, serving as the seventh President of the newly formed American Pharmaceutical Association, the building of which was constructed on land that Kidwell himself had purchased. Kidwell’s full-page advert in the City Directory isn’t shy about all his business could offer: a “First Class Drug Store”, “dealing in English, French and American Drugs, Chemicals and Perfumery”, and “Brandies, Wines and Liquors” (Boyd 1867:352) (Figure 2). The wide variety of bottles recovered during the archaeological investigation of Halcyon including embossed and plain pharmaceutical bottles, and a picnic flask-style liquor bottle suggests that his advertisements rang true, as the different bottles would have been filled with different items for sale (Figure 3).

Figure 2: 1867 Boyd’s City Directory Kidwell & Son advertisement

During the Civil War, Kidwell earned the moniker “Quinine King” as he sold large quantities of the malaria-fighting product to the Union Army (American Institute of Pharmacy, n.d.). A scandal emerged in October 1862, when a few individuals from Washington were arrested by Union forces in Virginia, a Confederate state, on charges of smuggling quinine to the enemy. While the group had standard passes allowing them to travel “beyond the lines with family supplies” it was discovered that they were carrying 300 ounces of quinine, too large a quantity to be considered “family supplies” (Alexandria Gazette 1862:2 and Evening Star 1862: 2). Contemporary newspaper accounts described the quinine hidden within the skirt bustle of one of the arrested ladies, a known smuggling tactic (Lupu 2024).

Kidwell was named as one of the druggists who sold the “contraband medicines” to these individuals knowing they were destined for Confederate territory, and was soon also arrested and joined the others in Old Capitol prison, in Washington D.C. (Alexandria Gazette 1862: 2 and Evening Star 1862: 2). While Kidwell proclaimed his innocence and was quickly released, there was talk at the time that he was a southern sympathizer (Lupu 2024). It was eventually determined that neither Kidwell nor his store clerks “knowingly violate[d] the Government’s necessary order on the subject” (The Evening Star 1862: 2).

Figure 3: Photo of additional Halcyon House pharma bottles & one picnic flask at left.  Courtesy of D.C. Historic Preservation Office.

While we don’t know whether any of the “allegedly” smuggled bottles were embossed with Kidwell’s name, we do know that such illicit trade provided quinine to Confederate forces in Virginia. Over half of Civil War deaths were attributed to disease, and the manufacture and distribution of quinine (then, the only known cure for malaria) was purposefully controlled by the Union; those making prohibited sales stood to gain significant profit (Lupu 2024).

The Halcyon House artifact collection, including these embossed bottles, is now curated by the D.C. Historic Preservation Office (Ames 2016).

The DC Archaeology Team would like to make a shoutout to Dr. Jenn Lupu, who carried Kidwell’s history well beyond the initial investigative report- thanks Jenn!


Alexandria Gazette (Alexandria, D.C.). 1862. Saturday Evening. 1 Nov: 2. Chronicling America: Historic American Newspapers. Library of Congress. https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85025007/1862-11-01/ed-1/seq-2/, accessed 13 Nov 2024.

Ames, Christine. 2016. Digging for Extraordinary Stories in the District’s Archaeological Collections. Paper presented at the 2016 D.C. History Conference, Washington, D.C.

American Institute of Pharmacy. N.D. Complete History American Institute of Pharmacy. Electronic document, https://aphanet.pharmacist.com/sites/default/files/files/complete_history_american_pharmacy_institute.pdf, accessed 27 October 2016.

Baumgartner-Wagner, Norma A., and Katherine J. Dinnel. 1989. Archeological Research at Halcyon House (51NW16). Prepared by Norma A. Baumgartner-Wagner, M.A., Consulting Archeologist, Fallston, Maryland, for Prospect Associates, Washington, D.C. Report on file at D.C. Historic Preservation Office, Washington, D.C.

Boyd, Wm. H. (compiler) 1860. Boyd’s Washington and Georgetown Directory Containing a Business Directory of Washington, Georgetown, and Alexandria, Congressional and Department Directory, and An Appendix of Much Useful Information. Taylor and Maury, Booksellers and Publishers, Washington, D.C.

Boyd, Wm. H. (compiler) 1867. Boyd’s Directory of Washington & Georgetown; together with a Business Directory of Alexandria, VA, and a Compendium of Their Government, Institutions, and Trades Boyd’s Directory, Co., Washington, D.C.

Jones, Russell and Worth Bailey. 1959. Halcyon House (Stoddert), 34th & Prospect Streets, N.W. Georgetown, D.C. HABS No. DC-69. Historic American Buildings Survey, National Park Service, Washington, D.C. Report on file at D.C. Historic Preservation Office, Washington, D.C.

Lupu, Jenn. 2024. Smuggled in Dresses and Dolls Heads: The Strategic Control of Quinine during the American Civil War. In progress. Copy on file at D.C. Historic Preservation Office.

The Evening Star (Washington, D.C.). 1862. Local News, a mistake on the arrest of Mr. Kidwell. 5 Nov: 2.

The Evening Star (Washington, D.C.). 1862. Seizure of Contraband and Contrabandists. 31 Oct: 2.

Curator’s Curio: 17th-Century Metallic Thread Buttons

J.H. Ogborne, Curator of Collections, Historic St. Mary’s City

Janene Johnston, Associate Curator, Jamestown Rediscovery

Recent excavations at the St. Mary’s Fort (1634-c.1642) at Historic St. Mary’s City in Maryland yielded multiple fragments of metallic thread and a woven metallic thread button. These objects originated from an early to mid-17th-century midden located within the fort’s boundaries.

Image 1: Quite a bit of the exterior woven thread design survived in the last several centuries. The wooden bead inside is only partially intact. Identification of the exact metallic and potential fiber content of these threads is currently in progress (Image courtesy of Historic St. Mary’s City).

This little button consists of a wooden bead core surrounded by a plain-woven collection of threads embellished with an as-yet unidentified metal. Each strand consists of thin filaments twisted into a yarn-like thread wrapped by a flattened strip of metal. Six of these composite strands were batched and woven around the bead.

Image 2: A closeup of the threads highlighting (in green) the flat metal strip overlaying the filament clusters (Image courtesy of Historic St. Mary’s City).

Small round buttons were used in various styles of European clothing for several centuries before this particular button arrived in Maryland in the 17th century. They were used to fasten men’s and women’s garments such as doublets or waistcoats.1 Elaborate (and expensive) varieties, like this one, were made of fibers intricately woven around a wooden core in various patterns.

During the 17th century, metallic thread consisted of precious metals or copper alloys drawn into fine wire or hammered thin sheets.2 Further intricacy was achieved by coiling wires into tiny spring-like threads (called purl) or wrapping the flattened sheets around organic fibers (sometimes referred to as filé).3 Gilding and silvering copper alloys were cost-effective methods for achieving conspicuous shine.4 Threads were affixed to textiles using a variety of techniques such as couching or directly passing through garment textiles, even to line buttonholes.5

Image 3: A collection of Jamestown’s thread-wrapped buttons, highlighting the differences in shape, size, and weaving patterns. The wooden core can be seen in five of the buttons (Image courtesy of Jamestown Rediscovery).

Nine very similar thread-wrapped buttons have been recovered from Jamestown, established in 1607, predating the St. Mary’s fort by only about 30 years. Of these, seven were recovered from early James Fort period contexts (ca. 1607-1624). Though none appear to have the same cross-hatched pattern as the St. Mary’s button, many of the threads appear to be wrapped in silver foil. Most of the Jamestown buttons are also similar in the fact that they are small, round buttons with various patterns of threads woven around a wooden core.

Additionally, Jamestown’s collection includes three buttons that appear to be variant forms – one that is elongated vertically and simply wrapped around the core, one that is biconvex with a herringbone weave pattern, and one particularly nice example of a domed button. The domed button is wrapped sparingly with braided silver threads allowing the wooden core to show through. Close examination reveals the presence of smaller purl threads that either alternate with the larger plaits or perhaps formed a layer under the silver plaits. Evidenced by the excessive amount of space between the core and threads, it is likely that the button also included a silk fabric that has since disintegrated.


Image 4: A view of the back of Jamestown’s domed button, showing both the silver-wrapped braided threads and the smaller purl threads (Image courtesy of Jamestown Rediscovery).
Meta Data for – 07940-JR – Doublet Button
Object number: 07940-JR
Unique ID: #113744
JR Context: JR4068C.01
Description: Doublet Button Wood / Fiber / Siler Carved / Woven

The presence of these metallic buttons at both 17th-century English forts attests to individuals aspiring to show off their wealth and social status to others around them. With excavations still ongoing at the St. Mary’s Fort midden, additional materials may provide further insight into potential garments, accessories, or even more threads, that will contribute to our understanding of the significance of status and the wealth of various individuals present in early 17th century Maryland.


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2 Járó, Márta. “Gold Embroidery and Fabrics in Europe: XI – XIV centuries.” Gold Bulletin 23 (1990): 40-57.; Karatzani, Anna. “Metal threads: the historical development.” (2014).

3 Karatzani 2014; Carr, Cristina Balloffet. “The Materials and Techniques of English Embroidery of the Late Tudor and Stuart Eras.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/mtee/hd_mtee.htm (June 2010).

4 Járó, Márta and Attila Tóth. “Scientific identification of European metal thread manufacturing techniques of the 17–19th centuries.” Endeavour 15 (1991): 175-184.

5 Rivers Cofield, Sara. “Colonial Metallic Trimmings.” Piecework (Fall 2023):6-10.